Programmable thermostats make it easy for homeowners to save energy and still come home (or wake up) to a comfortable house.

Following  our "House Posts", enjoy it.


Another effect that we should discuss is how your furnace or boiler delivers heat to your house. Most furnaces and boilers run either at full fire or off. When the combustion cycle starts, a certain amount of heat is used to warm up the heat exchanger and the duct or pipes. When the furnace or boiler shuts off, much of this heat will be lost.
(Having your ducts taped and insulated will help minimize this.) Any energy-saving strategy should also try to minimize the cycling of your heating system.

The most energy-saving alternative is to let your house become as cold as possible while you’re not home. What’s “as cold as possible”?
Don’t allow anything fragile (water pipes, for example) to freeze.
Allow just enough time for your heating system to bring the house temperature to its set point the moment you walk in the door.

But wait, there’s another complication. Even though the air temperature in your house may be at the perfect set point, you may feel less comfortable under these conditions. That’s because the surfaces in your house will probably be colder than if you had left the temperature set point higher. Cold surfaces will make you feel colder—not just because of touch (conduction), but also because of radiation.

The strategy of saving energy by allowing your house to drop in temperature while it’s unoccupied makes perfect sense. Programmable thermostats can “learn” how fast your house heats up and bring the temperature to the set point with little cycling. Also: Web-enabled thermostats, where you can access your home system from any Internet-connected computer, offer even more convenience for people with varying schedules.

Tweaking an Solar Hot Water (SHW) System

An amazing article that we saw in "Home Power Magazine", Enjoy it.

Two situations: 

I recently had a solar hot water (SHW) system installed on my house. It is a closed-loop, evacuated-tube system with a heat exchanger in the storage tank. The differential control (a Caleffi Solar Plus) provides variable pump speed control. Currently, it is using factory defaults for the conditions that determine pump speed. The system has four temperature sensors and a data logger, which help me keep tabs on its function.
I like the idea of a variable-speed pump because it seems like it can add efficiency to an SHW system—just like an MPPT controller does to solar-electric systems. That said, I am not sure what conditions drive the efficiency of the SHW system. Should the control be set for lower flows and higher temperatures, or higher flows and lower temperatures? I know there is more heat transfer at the exchanger with a higher temperature difference between the transfer fluid and tank water, but I am not sure how that balances with the collectors’ lower efficiencies at higher temperatures.
Is there a reference I can use to figure this out? I am not looking for specific numbers—more like basic explanations of relationships between the parts of the system and what to look for as a sign of how well an SHW system is performing. Perhaps it’s something like checking transfer-fluid temperature drop across the heat exchanger versus the temperature rise at the collector.

Jack Herndon • Seattle, Washington

An ideal collector loop of any SHW system would operate at a difference in temperature of just a few degrees between the inlet and outlet temperatures of the collectors. The higher this differential, the more heat is lost to the outside atmosphere.
This loss is dependent on the outside temperature. Although evacuated tubes are more resistant to heat loss, they are not immune to it. If you’re seeing a temperature difference of 50°F or greater, your system is suffering from a low flow rate problem. A system with a 20°F difference is much closer to operating at an “ideal” temperature.
The ideal is a compromise between the lower inlet/outlet differential to minimize heat loss, and a high-enough differential to prevent the control from short-cycling. Short-cycling will occur with too high of a flow rate and will be noticeable—the system will turning on and off excessively. Turning on and off is normal in the early morning and late afternoon and in cloudy weather, but shouldn’t happen in mid- day bright sun.
Chuck Marken • Home Power solar thermal editor

The Answer: 



Thermostat Dilemma
Is it more energy efficient to turn off your home’s heat when you’re going to be gone all day, or to leave it at a slightly lowered set point? I realize that this is likely a complex calculation involving volume of space, outside temperatures, building envelope and insulation, number of degrees in drop and recovery, elapsed time, type and cost of heating fuel, etc. But perhaps there are some general rules or simplified formulas that can direct a homeowner on the best approach.


Temperature Differentials, With & Without Heat Exchangers

The short answer is that leaving your thermostat at a very low set point will almost always result in lower energy consumption. The long answer follows.
For most residential heating systems, the thermostat controls the heating system to maintain the set point (the temperature you set). It does this by turning the heating system on and off. As you would expect, the room temperature will fluctuate from the set point, unless you allow the heating system to cycle on and off very quickly, which will prematurely age your equipment.
During cold weather, your house is continually losing heat to the outdoors. It does this in several ways. Heat is lost by conduction through the surfaces of the house; warm air exits the house while cold air enters (infiltration); and to a lesser extent, your house radiates heat outward. Of course, it gets more complicated, since your house has a great many parts, each of which have different thermal conductivities, thermal capacities, and radiative properties.
The net effect of all this complicated heat transfer is that a typical house will (almost always) lose more heat when the inside temperature becomes higher relative to outside. I say “almost always” because it’s possible to have net heat gain on a cold day if it’s very sunny, and your house is well-insulated and sealed.

Gardening. Right Plant, right place PART II

Formal vs. informal


Generally the type of design for a garden is split into two groups: formal and informal. You can of course have a mix of the two. For the novice gardener, the informal type of planting is especially useful, as it requires less upkeep and attention to detail.
With informal planting, the emphasis is on achieving a more natural design. We look for balance in design. This balance can come from colour, height or the quantity of plants you use.


Curves

Incorporating curves will add interest to your garden, but don’t overdo it. A collection of amoeba-shaped beds would be overkill, as would a curvy path that takes you far out of the way of your destination. Long, subtle curves are often best.

Movement


A landscaped garden needs movement to add life and interest. No garden is complete without some ornamental grasses to sway in the breeze. Add flowers and berries to attract birds and butterflies. A well-placed water feature can also help to provide movement.

Accents

Some thoughtful plantings can soften the edges of your home and help it blend with the surroundings. Try not to cover your home in an overgrown jungle, but look to the best architectural feature of your home and accent that with your planting.
Planting
Adding the plants to your garden is the finishing touch. For most of us, we purchase our plants a few at a time, gradually building up our garden beds. Experience will also be a factor in your choice of plants. For the inexperienced gardener, there are many cheap and cheerful plants that do well in most conditions.
Plant in groups to harmonise colour, texture and foliage. Aim for the plants to compliment each other – tall plants at the back, medium in the centre and ground cover at the front. When planting any trees or shrubs, visualize how they will look after a few years of growth. Try to get a sense of the likely height and width of the plant when it is fully mature.

For all of your plantings, you need to consider the requirements of the plant, soil conditions, sun or shade and the effect that the plant will create.


Tricks of the trade
• Plant in uneven groups as this will more closely follow a naturally occurring planting.
• Less is more when it comes to statues or other garden features.
• Curved borders will give the appearance of length and a greater scale.
• Keep your border curves simple and easy.
• If you have borders on each side of the garden, don’t make the edges match. Stick to irregularity, but get a
balance between the two corresponding edges.
• A garden hose is a very useful aid when forming informal curves. Lay the hose out in the shape you want and cut the edge following the hose along. Before you start, let the sun warm the hose – this makes it more pliable.
• Some plants are naturally bigger targets for pests and disease. Be aware of this when choosing your plants – think about their requirements and susceptibility to attack. For example, roses require a lot of maintenance to keep them free of pests and disease.
• If time and money run short, there is nothing wrong with leaving areas in lawn to be developed later.
Finally, keep in mind that you needn’t have a five-figure budget to achieve an exceptional landscape. Whether your landscape venture is a two-month project, or a Saturday trip to the nursery at Mitre 10, the key is to select your plants purposefully and place them thoughtfully. The result is sure to bring you years of enjoyment.

Gardening. Right Plant, right place

Right Plant, right place

By Sandy Johnson

There is no denying the importance of outdoor living to all the people in the world (especially New Zealanders) – it is an integral part of Kiwi culture. Our homes benefit from the luxury of space and this leads us to value ready access to our gardens.

Landscaping the garden is just like furnishing a room. While there are a few extra considerations, the basic principles are very similar. Start by looking through magazines and books for design elements you like. Remember this is your garden – it should reflect you and your family’s lifestyle.
There is one important question you need to ask yourself before you start planning a new garden or revamping an old one – how much time do you have to spend on the garden?
Knowing how much time you have will determine the type of garden you can work towards.
Time and finances are variable factors, but they should be considered early on.


Getting started


When faced with the bare open spaces of a new garden or a developed garden that you want to change, it is tempting to rush in and try to change everything at once. The best advice is to take the time now to think and plan your strategy, as this will save you time and money in the long run.
Start by drawing up a plan of your garden. Sketch the property boundaries, then draw all the permanent features on the plan. This will allow you to visualize a framework that you can work around. Include the following permanent structures on your plan:

• Garage
• House
• Decks
• Shed
• Paths
• Fences
• Pool
• Driveway

Remember to include in your plan any large trees that will be staying. Mark them showing the approximate spread of the shade thrown by them.

Start a scrapbook or garden diary and list the things you like about your garden and features you would like to get rid of. Then add a wish list of the features you would like to have. Get to know your garden and how it functions. Know which part of the garden gets the morning sun and which areas lose out in the winter. It is also very important to know where the prevailing wind comes from as planting for wind protection is wise.

Walk through your garden and see how easily it flows from the back to the front, or from the deck to the lawn. Understand which parts of your garden get boggy in the winter or dry out in the summer.
With this knowledge you can make the following decisions:

• Which views you wish to screen out for privacy.
• Which views you want to enhance.
• Thebestplaceforyourutilityarea,includingtheshed, compost bin and clothesline.
• Whether the garden needs more paths to get from one area to the next.
• If a playground is needed, where it will go.
• Where your entertaining space will be.
• The best place for a vegetable garden.
• Whether you need to mark out boundaries.

Plan for equipment access
At some point in the life of your home, you will be faced with a project or repair that requires getting machinery into your backyard. Even if it is just the mower on a weekly basis, plan for it in advance – tearing out your plantings is very upsetting.

Focal points


A focal point is something that directs you visually and makes you feel surprised, moved or engaged. Typically a specimen tree or a statue can be a focal point, though there are many other possibilities. It could be an architectural feature of your house or even a borrowed view.
The trick is to make features stand out, yet not stick out. It should be somehow connected to the rest of the landscape. Scale is also important.
For example, if you are lucky enough to have several acres with broad views, then a large oak tree would be fitting. Alternatively, an ornate garden bench or small statue will work for smaller gardens.

THIS POST WILL CONTINUE

Your Walls (House Painting)

(Thanks to How-To Magazine)

Painting your home inside or out requires careful planning and choosing how your paint finish is going to look is one of the key fundamentals of any painting project.

Gloss paint
Gloss paints have a highly reflective smooth surface and can help to reflect light and add a touch of class to surfaces. Solvent borne gloss paints are generally the toughest, most durable and most stain-resistant type of paint meaning you will benefit from a high polish finish that will last.
Gloss paints are easier to clean than paints with less surface smoothness making them ideal for areas exposed to heavy traffic or heavy use, especially where fingerprints, grease or grime are common.
Some areas where gloss paints are useful include kitchen, bathroom and laundry room walls; cabinets; banisters; doorways; windowsills and frames; and interior trim. Certain gloss paints can also be used on furniture.
The highly reflective appearance of gloss paints tend to highlight surface imperfections, making it essential to have a well prepared surface prior to applying. If walls or woodwork are either marred or irregular, it may be best to select paint with less sheen.

Semi-gloss paint
Semi-gloss paints, as the name suggests, have a slightly glossy appearance that is not as highly reflective as that of gloss paints. These types of finishes offer good stain resistance and are easy to clean, so they are especially popular among families with young children.
Paints with a semi-gloss appearance are excellent for use on many of the same areas as gloss paints. They are ideal for walls and woodwork which are subject to wear, including: kitchens and bathrooms; hallways; foyers and bathrooms; children’s rooms; playrooms; doors and doorways; windows and trim.
Eggshell, satin or low sheen paint
Paint manufacturers use various names for finishes whose sheen levels are lower than semi-gloss, yet more lustrous than flat paints. Among the terms commonly used are “eggshell”, “satin” and “low sheen”. (Satin or
low sheen paints sometimes have a slightly higher sheen than those with eggshell finishes).
Paints in this category tend to impart more warmth and depth to surfaces than flat paints. They resist stains better than flat paints, although not as well as semi-gloss and gloss paint. Eggshell, satin or low sheen paints are a good choice for rooms or areas where some sheen is desired and good cleaning properties are necessary.
Examples include: hallways, bathrooms, children’s rooms and playrooms. Occasionally, these types of paints are used for ceilings. However, their slight sheen will tend to highlight surface imperfections more so than flat paints.

Flat paint
Flat paints diffuse light, so they tend to conceal surface imperfections better than paints with higher sheen levels. As a result, they are a good choice for general use on walls and ceilings, especially those that are dented or rough.