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Showing posts with label how-to. Show all posts
Showing posts with label how-to. Show all posts

Monday, March 12, 2012

Programmable thermostats make it easy for homeowners to save energy and still come home (or wake up) to a comfortable house.

Following  our "House Posts", enjoy it.


Another effect that we should discuss is how your furnace or boiler delivers heat to your house. Most furnaces and boilers run either at full fire or off. When the combustion cycle starts, a certain amount of heat is used to warm up the heat exchanger and the duct or pipes. When the furnace or boiler shuts off, much of this heat will be lost.
(Having your ducts taped and insulated will help minimize this.) Any energy-saving strategy should also try to minimize the cycling of your heating system.

The most energy-saving alternative is to let your house become as cold as possible while you’re not home. What’s “as cold as possible”?
Don’t allow anything fragile (water pipes, for example) to freeze.
Allow just enough time for your heating system to bring the house temperature to its set point the moment you walk in the door.

But wait, there’s another complication. Even though the air temperature in your house may be at the perfect set point, you may feel less comfortable under these conditions. That’s because the surfaces in your house will probably be colder than if you had left the temperature set point higher. Cold surfaces will make you feel colder—not just because of touch (conduction), but also because of radiation.

The strategy of saving energy by allowing your house to drop in temperature while it’s unoccupied makes perfect sense. Programmable thermostats can “learn” how fast your house heats up and bring the temperature to the set point with little cycling. Also: Web-enabled thermostats, where you can access your home system from any Internet-connected computer, offer even more convenience for people with varying schedules.


Monday, November 7, 2011

Gardening. Right Plant, right place PART II

Formal vs. informal


Generally the type of design for a garden is split into two groups: formal and informal. You can of course have a mix of the two. For the novice gardener, the informal type of planting is especially useful, as it requires less upkeep and attention to detail.
With informal planting, the emphasis is on achieving a more natural design. We look for balance in design. This balance can come from colour, height or the quantity of plants you use.


Curves

Incorporating curves will add interest to your garden, but don’t overdo it. A collection of amoeba-shaped beds would be overkill, as would a curvy path that takes you far out of the way of your destination. Long, subtle curves are often best.

Movement


A landscaped garden needs movement to add life and interest. No garden is complete without some ornamental grasses to sway in the breeze. Add flowers and berries to attract birds and butterflies. A well-placed water feature can also help to provide movement.

Accents

Some thoughtful plantings can soften the edges of your home and help it blend with the surroundings. Try not to cover your home in an overgrown jungle, but look to the best architectural feature of your home and accent that with your planting.
Planting
Adding the plants to your garden is the finishing touch. For most of us, we purchase our plants a few at a time, gradually building up our garden beds. Experience will also be a factor in your choice of plants. For the inexperienced gardener, there are many cheap and cheerful plants that do well in most conditions.
Plant in groups to harmonise colour, texture and foliage. Aim for the plants to compliment each other – tall plants at the back, medium in the centre and ground cover at the front. When planting any trees or shrubs, visualize how they will look after a few years of growth. Try to get a sense of the likely height and width of the plant when it is fully mature.

For all of your plantings, you need to consider the requirements of the plant, soil conditions, sun or shade and the effect that the plant will create.


Tricks of the trade
• Plant in uneven groups as this will more closely follow a naturally occurring planting.
• Less is more when it comes to statues or other garden features.
• Curved borders will give the appearance of length and a greater scale.
• Keep your border curves simple and easy.
• If you have borders on each side of the garden, don’t make the edges match. Stick to irregularity, but get a
balance between the two corresponding edges.
• A garden hose is a very useful aid when forming informal curves. Lay the hose out in the shape you want and cut the edge following the hose along. Before you start, let the sun warm the hose – this makes it more pliable.
• Some plants are naturally bigger targets for pests and disease. Be aware of this when choosing your plants – think about their requirements and susceptibility to attack. For example, roses require a lot of maintenance to keep them free of pests and disease.
• If time and money run short, there is nothing wrong with leaving areas in lawn to be developed later.
Finally, keep in mind that you needn’t have a five-figure budget to achieve an exceptional landscape. Whether your landscape venture is a two-month project, or a Saturday trip to the nursery at Mitre 10, the key is to select your plants purposefully and place them thoughtfully. The result is sure to bring you years of enjoyment.

Saturday, November 5, 2011

Gardening. Right Plant, right place

Right Plant, right place

By Sandy Johnson



There is no denying the importance of outdoor living to all the people in the world (especially New Zealanders) – it is an integral part of Kiwi culture. Our homes benefit from the luxury of space and this leads us to value ready access to our gardens.

Landscaping the garden is just like furnishing a room. While there are a few extra considerations, the basic principles are very similar. Start by looking through magazines and books for design elements you like. Remember this is your garden – it should reflect you and your family’s lifestyle.
There is one important question you need to ask yourself before you start planning a new garden or revamping an old one – how much time do you have to spend on the garden?
Knowing how much time you have will determine the type of garden you can work towards.
Time and finances are variable factors, but they should be considered early on.


Getting started


When faced with the bare open spaces of a new garden or a developed garden that you want to change, it is tempting to rush in and try to change everything at once. The best advice is to take the time now to think and plan your strategy, as this will save you time and money in the long run.
Start by drawing up a plan of your garden. Sketch the property boundaries, then draw all the permanent features on the plan. This will allow you to visualize a framework that you can work around. Include the following permanent structures on your plan:

• Garage
• House
• Decks
• Shed
• Paths
• Fences
• Pool
• Driveway

Remember to include in your plan any large trees that will be staying. Mark them showing the approximate spread of the shade thrown by them.

Start a scrapbook or garden diary and list the things you like about your garden and features you would like to get rid of. Then add a wish list of the features you would like to have. Get to know your garden and how it functions. Know which part of the garden gets the morning sun and which areas lose out in the winter. It is also very important to know where the prevailing wind comes from as planting for wind protection is wise.

Walk through your garden and see how easily it flows from the back to the front, or from the deck to the lawn. Understand which parts of your garden get boggy in the winter or dry out in the summer.
With this knowledge you can make the following decisions:

• Which views you wish to screen out for privacy.
• Which views you want to enhance.
• Thebestplaceforyourutilityarea,includingtheshed, compost bin and clothesline.
• Whether the garden needs more paths to get from one area to the next.
• If a playground is needed, where it will go.
• Where your entertaining space will be.
• The best place for a vegetable garden.
• Whether you need to mark out boundaries.

Plan for equipment access
At some point in the life of your home, you will be faced with a project or repair that requires getting machinery into your backyard. Even if it is just the mower on a weekly basis, plan for it in advance – tearing out your plantings is very upsetting.

Focal points


A focal point is something that directs you visually and makes you feel surprised, moved or engaged. Typically a specimen tree or a statue can be a focal point, though there are many other possibilities. It could be an architectural feature of your house or even a borrowed view.
The trick is to make features stand out, yet not stick out. It should be somehow connected to the rest of the landscape. Scale is also important.
For example, if you are lucky enough to have several acres with broad views, then a large oak tree would be fitting. Alternatively, an ornate garden bench or small statue will work for smaller gardens.


THIS POST WILL CONTINUE

Friday, October 21, 2011

About Plants and shade

Six Ways to grow in the shade
by Sandy Johnson



Shady areas can be difficult to get plants to grow in. The “trial and error” method can really test your patience and your gardening budget. There are a few simple tricks we can share with you to make gardening in the shade a success.

1. Shade level
Determine the degree of shade you are dealing with, as this will guide you to make better plant choices:
Full shade – This is an area that receives no direct sunlight. The shade can be cast from trees, fences or the walls of your house or your neighbour’s house.
Dappled shade – This is where there is a mix of sun and shade. The area will receive sun at some parts of the day directly or filtered through foliage.
Part shade – This is the easiest type of shade to deal with, as the area will only receive shade for part of the day and be in the sun for the rest of the day.

2. Treat the soil
In shaded areas, just as in the rest of the garden, it is important to treat your soil. It is not unsual to have dry, poor soil in shady spots, which will restrict growth. Before planting, add a liberal application of compost and dig it through the top layer of soil. Shady areas also need water, though not as much as areas in the sun, so water occasionally in the hottest times of the year.

3. Increasing the light
The more light that the area receives, the better the plants will grow. Thin out the branches from trees that are casting the shade or remove low branches. This will also give you more space to work in.

4. Root competition
This is a common problem in shady gardens as large trees responsible for shading have large roots that take up a lot of space. Their root systems also use the water and nutrients, making it very difficult for other plants to thrive. This is where plants with a small root system such as ferns and bromeliads are perfect.

5. Height
Add some height by using pots or containers. They can be planted with a permanent plant or changed every season with annuals. Using pots is also an effective way to get colour into a spot that might be very wet. A sculpture is another way of adding colour and interest to a dreary area.

6. Stick with a good thing
If it works, then plant more. If your plant choices are limited or the area is very large, then plant in large groups – this is an effective way to create a stunning display, especially when the plants flower. Choosing plants that flower in lighter colours like white, light blue and pink will also help to brighten shade.

Thursday, October 20, 2011

Your Walls (House Painting)

(Thanks to How-To Magazine)

Painting your home inside or out requires careful planning and choosing how your paint finish is going to look is one of the key fundamentals of any painting project.

Gloss paint
Gloss paints have a highly reflective smooth surface and can help to reflect light and add a touch of class to surfaces. Solvent borne gloss paints are generally the toughest, most durable and most stain-resistant type of paint meaning you will benefit from a high polish finish that will last.
Gloss paints are easier to clean than paints with less surface smoothness making them ideal for areas exposed to heavy traffic or heavy use, especially where fingerprints, grease or grime are common.
Some areas where gloss paints are useful include kitchen, bathroom and laundry room walls; cabinets; banisters; doorways; windowsills and frames; and interior trim. Certain gloss paints can also be used on furniture.
The highly reflective appearance of gloss paints tend to highlight surface imperfections, making it essential to have a well prepared surface prior to applying. If walls or woodwork are either marred or irregular, it may be best to select paint with less sheen.

Semi-gloss paint
Semi-gloss paints, as the name suggests, have a slightly glossy appearance that is not as highly reflective as that of gloss paints. These types of finishes offer good stain resistance and are easy to clean, so they are especially popular among families with young children.
Paints with a semi-gloss appearance are excellent for use on many of the same areas as gloss paints. They are ideal for walls and woodwork which are subject to wear, including: kitchens and bathrooms; hallways; foyers and bathrooms; children’s rooms; playrooms; doors and doorways; windows and trim.
Eggshell, satin or low sheen paint
Paint manufacturers use various names for finishes whose sheen levels are lower than semi-gloss, yet more lustrous than flat paints. Among the terms commonly used are “eggshell”, “satin” and “low sheen”. (Satin or
low sheen paints sometimes have a slightly higher sheen than those with eggshell finishes).
Paints in this category tend to impart more warmth and depth to surfaces than flat paints. They resist stains better than flat paints, although not as well as semi-gloss and gloss paint. Eggshell, satin or low sheen paints are a good choice for rooms or areas where some sheen is desired and good cleaning properties are necessary.
Examples include: hallways, bathrooms, children’s rooms and playrooms. Occasionally, these types of paints are used for ceilings. However, their slight sheen will tend to highlight surface imperfections more so than flat paints.

Flat paint
Flat paints diffuse light, so they tend to conceal surface imperfections better than paints with higher sheen levels. As a result, they are a good choice for general use on walls and ceilings, especially those that are dented or rough.